As Easter Sunday rapidly approaches, it is officially ‘HCB’ season, despite the fact that they are rightfully or wrongfully available all year round, with the likes of Warburtons going so far as to marketing a heathenish ‘Hot Cross Loaf’ and thus shamelessly renouncing their traditional significance in the form of what is no more than a glorified fruit loaf. Nevertheless, this time of year should be seen as an excuse for excessive consumption of these fruity buns, ideally toasted and dripping with butter, at any time of the day. With a plethora of specimens available to uninformed consumers, I have done the homework for you in a bid to help you avoid the unparalleled disappointment of a mediocre Hot Cross Bun. The bun must not be dry; it should have a generous fruit to dough ratio which should be manifest when sliced in half, they must be soft, and they must be eaten with real butter.
The only real dilemma of where to purchase hot cross buns in Durham lies between Tesco and M&S, as other retailers either do not exist or are too inferior to mention. Starting with most basic of options - the bog-standard Tesco Bakery 6 for an undeniably economical 50p whilst on offer - these buns are nothing special, somewhat on the dry side and rather mean with the fruit. Tesco’s Finest variety, however, offers a pleasingly spiced plump dough with healthy sized sultanas and a good overall texture, a marked improvement on its budget range and worth paying a little more for (£1.29 for 4 or 2 for £2). The supermarket then deviates from convention with varieties such as Cranberry and Orange, and Chocolate and Orange, the latter of which I personally find to be akin to a confused pain au chocolat or brioche; too sweet and insulting the archetypal image of a hot cross bun. For those watching their waists in the run up to Easter, a Tesco Light Choices bun is available at a pound-shedding 185 calories per serving, but in my view the compromise in calories is directly proportionate to a compromise in flavour, and only a 15% redemption of calories – not worth it.
Wander a few metres further down Silver Street and thrust open the welcoming doors of Marks & Spencer. You know exactly what you’re getting when you purchase the classic 4 pack of M&S Luxury Hot Cross Buns, and they are indeed hard to fault; they comply with tradition and are arguably the best in their field. Their permutations are equally impressive, with an extremely fruity Cranberry and Orange for those in search of their five-a-day, bursting with juicy vermilion jewels, or my personal favourite is the Luxury Seeded hot cross bun, whose nutty texture is unbeatable with four tasty types of seed all nestled within the bun’s integument. The Mini Hot Cross Bun pack is also appealing, for a bite size taste explosion on the go, or indeed a less guilt-inducing option. It is worth noting that the entire M&S Hot Cross Bun range are on offer for 2 for £2 – so there is no excuse for missing out.
If you find yourself beyond the confines of DH1, for example, in Newcastle – and you serendipitously stumbled across a Waitrose branch, then you may prepare yourself for a whole new hot cross bun experience – Heston Blumenthal has released a signature ‘Earl Grey and Mandarin’ hot cross bun. They are no bargain, at £1.59 for two, but they are a generous size and the aroma when you open the packet is impressive – the Earl Grey soaked array of dried fruits within is abundant, and, unsurprisingly, it goes particularly well when bites are taken in between sips of Earl Grey tea.
Whichever echelon you decide to opt for, whether according to your budget or your concern for quality, ensure they are fresh, hot, and dripping with Lurpak - and consume in excess over Lent. If you have no daughters: give them to your sons.
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